Saturday, March 22, 2003
808 Dials Up Euro Asian In San Diego
San Diego wine and food fanatics won't have to fly to get to area code 808 any more. Not with the opening of 808 in UTC's Aventine right next to Flemings Steak House and Wine Bar.
808, which is the telephone area code for all the Hawaiian islands is also the chosen name for Jean-Marie Josselin's mainland based pair of restaurants, built upon the fine tradition of his "A Pacific Cafe" that is found just outside the resort town Lihue on Kauai.
So while some may think that 808 dials up competition for Roy's, it really doesn't, as the cooking styles of the two restaurants are actually complimentary because they are as different as night and day. About the only thing they have in common other than extraordinarily fresh fish, is the fact that both places have their origins in Hawaii. So before the local critics put the two friendly rivals in the boxing ring, if any restaurants in San Diego better worry, it's Aventine neighbor Japango that should, as 808's food, service and decor is hand down better than Japango on its best night ever, which is definitely in its past. La Jolla's Ropanggi, which is just about a concept and menu rip off of Roy's, Japango and L.A.'s Chinois better also worry, as Josselin's small plate appetizers may just be the best around.
While Roy's founder Roy Yamaguchi learned his craft under Michaels legendary chef, Michael McCarty, and then went back to the islands to pioneer and create from scratch the concept of Hawaiian Fusion cuisine by blending of local Island only flavors with those of the mainland, Asia and the South Pacific, it's 808's Jean Marie Josselin that went whole hog into Euro Asian cooking, blending his own roots of growing up in ski resort town Chamonix, France with the Asian herbs, spices and seasonings that found their way to the islands. While both may share on the plate the same high degrees of presentation perfection, it's Josselin's small plate, tasting portion samples that arrives the same way as Paris' best performers of this food art form, Hiramatsu or Pierre Gagnaire or Tiara whose restaurants each delivers their interpretation of East meets West cooking.
Last night the WinePals group sat through an eight course, on the spot wine match up dinner, with many courses combining three different small plate complimentary dishes, each served with ethereal sauces, herbs and downright eye-catching presentation that would have any executive chef ooing and aahing.
At one point, possibly course two or three, a three part harmony of "wow" was heard around the table of seven. By the end of the night, even the most cynical of the bunch were wagging their tongues in awe making comments like, "I knew it would be great, but never even imagined how great it could be...."
As for the wines.....
1991 Mittnacht Klack Grand Cru Sporen Gewürztraminer
Amazing wine and hands down my favorite white of the night. Textbook Alsatian Gewürztraminer, that had Goesselin saying after the meal, how he clearly tasted Lychee in the flavors. Crystalline, pure, almost all nectar like fruit, without a hint of any remaining acidity. The sweetness level was just right and the flavors sparkling. Orange blossom, rose petals, well preserved green grapes and just a hint of lime in the flavor range. Outstanding.
1998 Hermitage du Pic St. Loup Blanc Saint Anges
A totally different flavor profile from the Languedoc white, and even more different than the Alquier from the night before. This blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Carignane Blanc was stony, flinty, with pears, honeydew, lime and kiwi flavors all wrapped in a crispy wafer. Very good.
1993 Kuentz-Bas Tokay Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle
The second best wine of the night, the rich, honey and honeysuckle flavors of this wine were a delight to behold. Again, aged very well, the wine showed off with flavors of anise, licorice, honey, cantaloupe, fruit cocktail medley, and a hint of vanilla. Fantastic.
1992 Lingenfelder Halbtrocken Spatlese Riesling
A semi sweet/semi-dry 11 year young German was spicy, racy and crisp. Great flavors of apples, pear, lemon-lime and ginger. This very angular, deeply wound wine is at its peak and ready for smart consumers who laid theirs down. Very good.
1996 Jouget Clos du Grand Varranes Chinon
100 percent Cabernet Franc.What a perfect substitute for Pinot Noir or Merlot. This wine has the palate texture of silk, but the flavors of deep cherry fruit, mixed with roasted herbs, wild berry and grape jam is a pure delight to consume with the cross cultural food. This wine was so good, it was gone from my glass in 60 seconds, but the finish seemed to linger on for minutes. Fantastic.
1990 E. Guigal Chateauneuf du Pape
Nothing is better than an nicely aged Chateauneuf du Pape, and the 1990 was no exception. While I'm never sure from year to year, which of the 13 grapes allowed in a CdP find their way into Guigal's blend, what ever did back in 1990 sure were right, for the wine with an aroma of Provencal herbs, roasted meat, blackberry, cherry, blueberry, raspberry and just about any berry was really a winner. Outstanding.
1994 Mas Morties Pic St. Loup
Initially the wine seemed off, but after letting it sit in my glass all of a sudden it became a powerful stony and chalky Languedoc that was full of black fruit, flint, Garrigue flavors of thyme and sagebrush. Deep resonating cherry and black berry flavors, while I was initially concerned about this wine, by the end of the glass I no longer was. Good to very good.
1999 Penfolds Eden Valley Riesling
What an terrific New World Riesling to have with dessert. Lemon, lime, kiwi, pear and apple flavors the wine easily has another five to ten years of life ahead of this as the acidity and fruit are both so far forward. Very good to excellent.
A great night was had by all......
Cheers,
Andy Abramson
San Diego wine and food fanatics won't have to fly to get to area code 808 any more. Not with the opening of 808 in UTC's Aventine right next to Flemings Steak House and Wine Bar.
808, which is the telephone area code for all the Hawaiian islands is also the chosen name for Jean-Marie Josselin's mainland based pair of restaurants, built upon the fine tradition of his "A Pacific Cafe" that is found just outside the resort town Lihue on Kauai.
So while some may think that 808 dials up competition for Roy's, it really doesn't, as the cooking styles of the two restaurants are actually complimentary because they are as different as night and day. About the only thing they have in common other than extraordinarily fresh fish, is the fact that both places have their origins in Hawaii. So before the local critics put the two friendly rivals in the boxing ring, if any restaurants in San Diego better worry, it's Aventine neighbor Japango that should, as 808's food, service and decor is hand down better than Japango on its best night ever, which is definitely in its past. La Jolla's Ropanggi, which is just about a concept and menu rip off of Roy's, Japango and L.A.'s Chinois better also worry, as Josselin's small plate appetizers may just be the best around.
While Roy's founder Roy Yamaguchi learned his craft under Michaels legendary chef, Michael McCarty, and then went back to the islands to pioneer and create from scratch the concept of Hawaiian Fusion cuisine by blending of local Island only flavors with those of the mainland, Asia and the South Pacific, it's 808's Jean Marie Josselin that went whole hog into Euro Asian cooking, blending his own roots of growing up in ski resort town Chamonix, France with the Asian herbs, spices and seasonings that found their way to the islands. While both may share on the plate the same high degrees of presentation perfection, it's Josselin's small plate, tasting portion samples that arrives the same way as Paris' best performers of this food art form, Hiramatsu or Pierre Gagnaire or Tiara whose restaurants each delivers their interpretation of East meets West cooking.
Last night the WinePals group sat through an eight course, on the spot wine match up dinner, with many courses combining three different small plate complimentary dishes, each served with ethereal sauces, herbs and downright eye-catching presentation that would have any executive chef ooing and aahing.
At one point, possibly course two or three, a three part harmony of "wow" was heard around the table of seven. By the end of the night, even the most cynical of the bunch were wagging their tongues in awe making comments like, "I knew it would be great, but never even imagined how great it could be...."
As for the wines.....
1991 Mittnacht Klack Grand Cru Sporen Gewürztraminer
Amazing wine and hands down my favorite white of the night. Textbook Alsatian Gewürztraminer, that had Goesselin saying after the meal, how he clearly tasted Lychee in the flavors. Crystalline, pure, almost all nectar like fruit, without a hint of any remaining acidity. The sweetness level was just right and the flavors sparkling. Orange blossom, rose petals, well preserved green grapes and just a hint of lime in the flavor range. Outstanding.
1998 Hermitage du Pic St. Loup Blanc Saint Anges
A totally different flavor profile from the Languedoc white, and even more different than the Alquier from the night before. This blend of Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Carignane Blanc was stony, flinty, with pears, honeydew, lime and kiwi flavors all wrapped in a crispy wafer. Very good.
1993 Kuentz-Bas Tokay Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle
The second best wine of the night, the rich, honey and honeysuckle flavors of this wine were a delight to behold. Again, aged very well, the wine showed off with flavors of anise, licorice, honey, cantaloupe, fruit cocktail medley, and a hint of vanilla. Fantastic.
1992 Lingenfelder Halbtrocken Spatlese Riesling
A semi sweet/semi-dry 11 year young German was spicy, racy and crisp. Great flavors of apples, pear, lemon-lime and ginger. This very angular, deeply wound wine is at its peak and ready for smart consumers who laid theirs down. Very good.
1996 Jouget Clos du Grand Varranes Chinon
100 percent Cabernet Franc.What a perfect substitute for Pinot Noir or Merlot. This wine has the palate texture of silk, but the flavors of deep cherry fruit, mixed with roasted herbs, wild berry and grape jam is a pure delight to consume with the cross cultural food. This wine was so good, it was gone from my glass in 60 seconds, but the finish seemed to linger on for minutes. Fantastic.
1990 E. Guigal Chateauneuf du Pape
Nothing is better than an nicely aged Chateauneuf du Pape, and the 1990 was no exception. While I'm never sure from year to year, which of the 13 grapes allowed in a CdP find their way into Guigal's blend, what ever did back in 1990 sure were right, for the wine with an aroma of Provencal herbs, roasted meat, blackberry, cherry, blueberry, raspberry and just about any berry was really a winner. Outstanding.
1994 Mas Morties Pic St. Loup
Initially the wine seemed off, but after letting it sit in my glass all of a sudden it became a powerful stony and chalky Languedoc that was full of black fruit, flint, Garrigue flavors of thyme and sagebrush. Deep resonating cherry and black berry flavors, while I was initially concerned about this wine, by the end of the glass I no longer was. Good to very good.
1999 Penfolds Eden Valley Riesling
What an terrific New World Riesling to have with dessert. Lemon, lime, kiwi, pear and apple flavors the wine easily has another five to ten years of life ahead of this as the acidity and fruit are both so far forward. Very good to excellent.
A great night was had by all......
Cheers,
Andy Abramson
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