Sunday, May 25, 2003
The last few nights have been monumental when it comes to the number of wines consumed and tasted at a series of two dinners at Arterra with the WinePals and some new friends to the area. Chef Carl Schroeder is a literal culinary genius in the kitchen, and if the last two nights of cooking didn't prove it out, nothing will. With a range and repertoire that spans the globe, I don't think he's met a wine he couldn't concoct something to go with it. If anyone has assumed the mantle of David Abella as San Diego's most creative, inventive and imaginative chef, if it isn't Schroeder, it's Jean Marie Josselin at 808 as the two are running neck and neck like the thoroughbreds at Del Mar will do later this summer. Schroeder's energy and enthusiasm is effusive, reminiscent of former Sweetlips doyen in the kitchen, Emily Moore or the early days of Jeffrey Straus at Pamplemousse Grille before he became as popular as he now is. His range and creativity seems to know no limits.
On the Rose front the 2000 Mas Champart St. Chinian Rose and the 2000 Chateau de Tronquedeville Tavel both seemed to be everything you want in a rose. Floral, springy, lively and refreshing. They are both also bone dry. Each has its own qualities and charm. The Champart with its almost dull salmon color offers all the spice and strawberry and raspberry flavored fruit nicely. The Tronquedeville with its deeper, rich almost Rose petal color with lip smacking same flavors of raspberry and strawberry. Next was the 2000 Il Gardone Bardolino Chiaretto from the Lake Garda region in Northern Italy. Sadly, I think this was the last bottle, but the flavors and fruit of black raspberry and ice cream filling strawberries provided a nice departure point from the Italian whites that preceded them and the big, gutsy reds that followed.
On the white side of the fence a few stand out. The 1989 Deletang Montluis Demi Sec made from pure Chenin Blanc was exquisite. Still very youthful and lively, the absolute dry sweet combo in the glass revels in its glory. A perfect match up to a cheese course. The 2000 Icardi Cortese Piedmonte Bianco with its lemon and lime flavors, dry melon and figs was divine. Even better, the 2000 Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino from Italy's Campania region was fully of honeysuckles and white spices. It was a perfect pairing with a smoked salmon course. Another favorite Italian white, the 2000 Ritratti Trentino Pinot Grigio continues to impress all that get to try it. The smoky bouquet is backed up by minerals and slate, with flavors of peaches, apples and pears. A new Oregon producer, David Hill's 2002 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris sure agreed with the Friday night crowd. It's Smokey aroma, woodsy, not woody flavors, and spicy fruit gave this wine an incredible flavor set.
Red wines also abounded the last two nights, with Italians being the theme for a friend's 20th Anniversary dinner on Saturday, while Friday's Pot Luck concept took center stage. David Hill's 2000 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir was not as forward as his Pinot Gris, but it still did provide pleasure and enjoyment, and for a low teens priced Pinot Noir it's a far cry better than others coming from Oregon at higher prices. Even better was the 2000 Ata Rangi New Zealand Pinot Noir which had a dense red color, ripe sawdust and raspberry fruit flavors. The 1999 Chave Offrus St. Joseph is a wine that never wows me. White it was good, I guess I'm expecting more than the roasted herbs, red pepper, black olives with additional flavors of roasted chestnuts and smoked meat on the palate. I felt far better about the next two Rhone like wines. The 1994 Cuvee Unique Les Baux de Provence wine, a special bottling made by Mas de Gourgounier for North Berkeley Wines is never a disappointment. A blend of Syrah, some Cabernet, a little Grenache and some Carignan, the wine is a made to be guzzled softie with herb de Provence aromas, black spicy fruit, pepper and more. The 1995 Domaine de Andezon Cotes du Rhone made from old vine Grenache and with some Syrah has hit a point in time where every bottle is more and more enjoyable. Built like a Chateauneuf du Pape and easily drinking like one, the wine still has a bright red robe, loads of blackberry, raspberry and cassis flavors and a hint of sandstone and gravel. The 2001 Bousquet de Papes Chateauneuf du Pape is too youthful to be enjoyed. Currently it is backwards, showing almost nothing memorable, but still is a well made wine that just needs time. A 1997 Allegrini Amarone, served at the end of the night was dense and opaque in color, presenting a port like richness and black cherry liquor flavor.
Saturday's Reds were almost all mindblowing...Starting with the 1999 Fratelli Revello Dolcetto d'Alba which showed up as it always does. A fruit forward, lush, ripe red, loaded with berry and cherry flavors, all backed by soft, dusty tannins. The 1990 Terrabianca Campaccio Vino da Tavola was as it always is. Still too youthful. The blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon has miles ahead, with that cherry, cedar, black plum and tobacco flavors all swirling endlessly in your mouth. Paired with a Truffled Gnocchi dish it was simply amazing. Then with a Beef Ravioli course the 1995 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino showed why in my mind it is a better wine than the Banfi, but not by much. This wine is still in its upward glide path revealing loads of tar and a cigar box bouquet. On the palate, sweet cherry, red plums, cassis, Oriental spice and black tea all ran the gamut. This is one of the most sensual Italian reds I've had in some time. With Roasted Squab two Barolo wines made their appearance. An obscure 1985 Rosso Ca' Del Merlo from Cantina del Viticoltore Quiutarelli Giuseppe was big and rich, with earthy flavors and black cherry fruit engulfing the palate. The 1997 Renato Corino Barolo is a youthful, ripe, full throttled, muscular wine with great cherry, anise, tar and leather washing around in your mouth. The more mature, and lighter 1993 Mascarello Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno was sadly corked. Before Saturday night ended we went through a few more wines with the superb Flat Iron Kobe beef dish. The 1998 Sottimano Barbaresco Curra Vigna Masue Sottimano and 1998 De Forville Barbaresco Rabaja. The slight nod goes to the Sottimano which seemed smoother, but both were outstanding. Saving the best for last, the 1985 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva "Il Poggio" found buried in the back of my cellar was simply awesome. Drinking like a five year old wine, not an 18 year young wine, this red wine left everyone with wide open smiles of love, for this wine was in a class by itself. Roasted fruit flavors of cherry, blackberry, raspberry, plums. Tea, tobacco, tar and saddle leather. Coffee and more. The wine is a real treat to enjoy again and again....and so is Arterra meant to be enjoyed, over and over again..
Cheers!
Andy Abramson
On the Rose front the 2000 Mas Champart St. Chinian Rose and the 2000 Chateau de Tronquedeville Tavel both seemed to be everything you want in a rose. Floral, springy, lively and refreshing. They are both also bone dry. Each has its own qualities and charm. The Champart with its almost dull salmon color offers all the spice and strawberry and raspberry flavored fruit nicely. The Tronquedeville with its deeper, rich almost Rose petal color with lip smacking same flavors of raspberry and strawberry. Next was the 2000 Il Gardone Bardolino Chiaretto from the Lake Garda region in Northern Italy. Sadly, I think this was the last bottle, but the flavors and fruit of black raspberry and ice cream filling strawberries provided a nice departure point from the Italian whites that preceded them and the big, gutsy reds that followed.
On the white side of the fence a few stand out. The 1989 Deletang Montluis Demi Sec made from pure Chenin Blanc was exquisite. Still very youthful and lively, the absolute dry sweet combo in the glass revels in its glory. A perfect match up to a cheese course. The 2000 Icardi Cortese Piedmonte Bianco with its lemon and lime flavors, dry melon and figs was divine. Even better, the 2000 Feudi di San Gregorio Fiano di Avellino from Italy's Campania region was fully of honeysuckles and white spices. It was a perfect pairing with a smoked salmon course. Another favorite Italian white, the 2000 Ritratti Trentino Pinot Grigio continues to impress all that get to try it. The smoky bouquet is backed up by minerals and slate, with flavors of peaches, apples and pears. A new Oregon producer, David Hill's 2002 Willamette Valley Pinot Gris sure agreed with the Friday night crowd. It's Smokey aroma, woodsy, not woody flavors, and spicy fruit gave this wine an incredible flavor set.
Red wines also abounded the last two nights, with Italians being the theme for a friend's 20th Anniversary dinner on Saturday, while Friday's Pot Luck concept took center stage. David Hill's 2000 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir was not as forward as his Pinot Gris, but it still did provide pleasure and enjoyment, and for a low teens priced Pinot Noir it's a far cry better than others coming from Oregon at higher prices. Even better was the 2000 Ata Rangi New Zealand Pinot Noir which had a dense red color, ripe sawdust and raspberry fruit flavors. The 1999 Chave Offrus St. Joseph is a wine that never wows me. White it was good, I guess I'm expecting more than the roasted herbs, red pepper, black olives with additional flavors of roasted chestnuts and smoked meat on the palate. I felt far better about the next two Rhone like wines. The 1994 Cuvee Unique Les Baux de Provence wine, a special bottling made by Mas de Gourgounier for North Berkeley Wines is never a disappointment. A blend of Syrah, some Cabernet, a little Grenache and some Carignan, the wine is a made to be guzzled softie with herb de Provence aromas, black spicy fruit, pepper and more. The 1995 Domaine de Andezon Cotes du Rhone made from old vine Grenache and with some Syrah has hit a point in time where every bottle is more and more enjoyable. Built like a Chateauneuf du Pape and easily drinking like one, the wine still has a bright red robe, loads of blackberry, raspberry and cassis flavors and a hint of sandstone and gravel. The 2001 Bousquet de Papes Chateauneuf du Pape is too youthful to be enjoyed. Currently it is backwards, showing almost nothing memorable, but still is a well made wine that just needs time. A 1997 Allegrini Amarone, served at the end of the night was dense and opaque in color, presenting a port like richness and black cherry liquor flavor.
Saturday's Reds were almost all mindblowing...Starting with the 1999 Fratelli Revello Dolcetto d'Alba which showed up as it always does. A fruit forward, lush, ripe red, loaded with berry and cherry flavors, all backed by soft, dusty tannins. The 1990 Terrabianca Campaccio Vino da Tavola was as it always is. Still too youthful. The blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon has miles ahead, with that cherry, cedar, black plum and tobacco flavors all swirling endlessly in your mouth. Paired with a Truffled Gnocchi dish it was simply amazing. Then with a Beef Ravioli course the 1995 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino showed why in my mind it is a better wine than the Banfi, but not by much. This wine is still in its upward glide path revealing loads of tar and a cigar box bouquet. On the palate, sweet cherry, red plums, cassis, Oriental spice and black tea all ran the gamut. This is one of the most sensual Italian reds I've had in some time. With Roasted Squab two Barolo wines made their appearance. An obscure 1985 Rosso Ca' Del Merlo from Cantina del Viticoltore Quiutarelli Giuseppe was big and rich, with earthy flavors and black cherry fruit engulfing the palate. The 1997 Renato Corino Barolo is a youthful, ripe, full throttled, muscular wine with great cherry, anise, tar and leather washing around in your mouth. The more mature, and lighter 1993 Mascarello Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno was sadly corked. Before Saturday night ended we went through a few more wines with the superb Flat Iron Kobe beef dish. The 1998 Sottimano Barbaresco Curra Vigna Masue Sottimano and 1998 De Forville Barbaresco Rabaja. The slight nod goes to the Sottimano which seemed smoother, but both were outstanding. Saving the best for last, the 1985 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva "Il Poggio" found buried in the back of my cellar was simply awesome. Drinking like a five year old wine, not an 18 year young wine, this red wine left everyone with wide open smiles of love, for this wine was in a class by itself. Roasted fruit flavors of cherry, blackberry, raspberry, plums. Tea, tobacco, tar and saddle leather. Coffee and more. The wine is a real treat to enjoy again and again....and so is Arterra meant to be enjoyed, over and over again..
Cheers!
Andy Abramson
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