Sunday, June 22, 2003
Over the past week I've been tasting some older wines from the South of France and the Rhone Valley. To say the wines were nothing short of amazing is a testament to the cellaring conditions which the wines have been stored in. Keeping them at 55 degrees lends a certain, longevity to to them. Some weren't fully mature yet, but as each wine opened in the glass, amazing aromas and flavors filtered out, engulfing the olfactory and palate based senses and giving all a warm feeling inside.
1994 Domaine Trevallon Vin d'Pays Bouches du Rhone Blanc
The blend is Marsanne, Rolle and Chardonnay. Odd grapes to put together. The aroma you get off the start is nutmeg. That's when the fun begins as the viscous, golden colored wine begins to reveal flavors from the unctuous layers of fresh fruit. As rich as some Vendage Tardive wines from Alsace, but like them, as delicate and flavorful as they can be, the wine revealed nuances of flavor and aromatics of ripe honeydew melon, peach, golden apples and peach. Not a jaw dropper of a wine, but darn close this wine has not come close to maxing out its aging apogee, making me wonder what the 1995 and 1993 siblings will be like.
1992 Domaine Trevallon Vin d'Pays Bouches du Rhone Rouge
I have to admit that since my first sip of a Trevallon red in 1988, I've been a convert. That was the famed 1985 which had a flavor that never seemed to end. My appreciation for Trevallon only grew more in 1996 on my first and only visit to the winery, a rustic, non-descript place on the side of the road, where the sign pointing you left is so small you may miss it for that's when the winemaker, the diminutive Elio Durbach replied to my question of how long his wines will age, he just shrugged, and replied, "none has been around long enough to know." But he did tell me that he thought to that point 1992 of the vintages in the 90's to that point was easily the most forward he had made, and the candidate to drink the soonest. So, over the past seven or so years, I have faithfully followed that approach (that and tasting others and only finding he was indeed correct) and enjoyed this wine with only the closest of friends who know and appreciate wine.
The wine begins with a hint of green bell pepper, reminding you of the great Cabernet Francs of the Loire. But that dissipates and turns to more Provencale' aromas like black olives, wild herbs, spice. I think that's the Syrah portion talking for the Cabernet takes on the elegance and flavors of black cherry, tobacco and plum fruit. Just when you think the ride is over, out comes an amazing concentration of blueberry in the finish. The wine is dynamite in the glass, and is world class. How do I know? The chef at the restaurant was still talking about it two nights later as was one of the bartenders.....That was when we tasted and consumed....
1989 Coudelet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhone Rouge
I had intended to grab a 1999 Coudelet that just arrived from Premier Cru, an importer and merchant in Emeryville, CA when I pulled this by mistake. Local wine broker Bill Gillespie and I had just finished an amazing charity tasting that supported Del Mar Schools at a local residents where we both spoke about wines and led the silent auction winners through a series of nine wines. Given it was Saturday night we headed over to Arterra for a fast bite and a chance to try some older reds and a new California red that Bill represents.
The 89 had a low fill, but heck, it's 14 years old and the first ten bottles have never been less than spectacular, so, we gambled rather than return to the cellar and take the intended 1999. That, and the 1990 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape.
The wine rocked. I mean. Rocked. Given all the reports of 1989 Beaucastels having corkage problems out here in California, which I've witnessed with other people's bottles, this wine was a thoroughbred from the very start. That telltale barnyard aroma from the Mourvedre, the soft, almost pinot noir like raspberry aroma from the Grenache and the big, supple heavyweight blueberry flavors from the Syrah were there from the very start. As we drank it, knowing full well, what was up next, we just shook our heads in amazement. This was "Cotes du Rhone" and like always, demonstrating that the so called "second" wine made from grapes just across the road from what is the AOC boundary for Chateauneuf du Pape is a wine that easily rivals and can surpass most of the other better producers first wines in very good years.
The flavors of tar and tobacco were there, as was sweet cherry tobacco flavor, raspberry, strawberry, coffee, blueberry. The wine was amazing and had all the servers and chef Carl Schroeder happy too..
1990 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape
How do you follow up a wine like that. With a better wine. While the 1989 drank better last night, the 1990 was a wine in almost a different class. The Coudelet was a wild stallion, rustic, hedonistic and for thrill seekers. The 1990 CdP was more elegant, refined, yet like the '89 not bridled or holding back anything. It took a little while to open, and I had almost wished I had taken this out of its 55 degree resting place sooner, only so we could have enjoyed it earlier in the evening. But when it opened, and it did, it revealed once again how great this wine will be in say, another four or five years. The wine is as black as Cabernet, likely from the very present, but not overpowering Mourvedre that clearly dominates the wine. The aromas are more along the lines of Provencale and Asian herbs, Oriental tea, spice route peppers (dare I say Peri Peri), and black raspberry. On the mouth the wine is just starting to evolve, good evidence that even at age 13 the future is very bright for this wine, which like the 1988's were, seems to be forward, yet developing, while the 1989's which came out more backwards upon release and still has those delightful earthy aromatics. Not so here, as the very lush, almost velvety red is oozing as it opens with jammy fruit, herbs and spice. Blackberry, blueberry and red plums, make this wine one to hold on to if you have any. If 1989 wasn't as great of a year, it's more than likely that the 1990 would be the one that has collectors whetting their appetites for this wine to come around.
1998 Mas de Bressades Cabernet-Syrah
I'm never quite sure if the wines from Mas de Bressades are designated AOC or VDP wines. But who cares. Here's a $12.99 wine, aged now five, that is made in a throwback style full of all the rustic southern France charms I've grown to love. Consistently an "outperformer" in any reviewers book, having enjoyed wines from this producer for more years than I care to remember, the 98 has developed very nicely into a powerhouse blockbuster of a wine, easily overshadowing some same vintage Cotes du Rhones that I've had of late. Black pepper, roasted herbs, chewy berry fruit, spice and a hint of gravel, great length, but outclassed that night by the Trevallon. Still, as a substitute for Trevallon, while those monsters age, the Bressades is certainly on my list annually as a great QPR buy.
1992 Domaine Tempier "La Cabassaou" Bandol
Sitting in a parcel of land near the famed "La Tourtine" vineyards, the wine is almost 100 percent Mourvedre, as the field blend likely includes a few other varietals. Situated high up on the hillside of Castellet, the vineyard gets the benefits of the Mistral winds and somehow has withstood them for oh so many years. When one defines long term aging wines that are rich, dense and hedonistic, this wine has to come to mind. Now at age 11, the wine is nowhere near its high point in life, still evolving, still developing and still maturing. Flavors of sumatrite, chalk, gravel, of course the always present, but not off putting horse sweat, wild game, earth, mushrooms, cepes, truffles and pine tar, the fruit layers of black raspberry, black plums and ripe cassis are starting to peak through. Give this wine an overnight aeration, in a decanter and the wine will likely be muscular, yet voluptuous.
1998 Domaine Andre Brunel Cotes du Rhone "Cuvee Sommelongue"
One other best value, high achieving Cotes du Rhone Reds in very good years, the 98 is at peak and very enjoyable. Flavors of jammy kirsch, cherry and plums, the wine made by one of Chateauneuf du Pape's better makers (Les Cailloux) is the kind of wine that you drink without thinking, while the bigger Rhones from the more fabled appellations get around to being ready to be enjoyed. Layers of black, bing and red cherry, the wine is no longer candied as it is when young, and instead has become more robust and chewy, as the 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah have melded nicely into a easy to drink, yet full bodied wine that is perfect with just about anything off the grill.
New Wines For The Times
2000 Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
A real treat, and a fine example of high mountain California Cabernet. This new, soon to be released red is a dramatic departure from other Ladera Cabernets, that are more valley based. The wine is already fruit forward, lush and very much developed, evidence that the vintage may be more of an early drinking one compared to 1999 or 1997, yet better in concentration than 1998 was--which in many circles has been declared a great restaurant vintage as the wines are very approachable.
This red is loaded with blueberry pie filling fruit plus sandalwood, coffee, cherry, red plums, violets and a hint of licorice on the palate. The wine is concentrated, has some nice mineral tones and a long, very refined finish.
1999 Frazier Lupine Vineyard Merlot, Oakville
Here's the kind of Merlot your daddy used to drink. Or, anyone who recalls when California Merlot was more than something you found for $12.00 or even $2.00, if you get my implied "Chuckle." Almost Cabernet like, and likely some is found inside, this old school style of Merlot has less than 500 cases produced. Made from estate fruit, the wine is rich, with a chocolate attack and a raspberry, black plum, mint, cedar and cherry finish. Worth seeking out and enjoying with meaty dishes.
1999 Cooper-Garrod Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernet Franc
Another small lot producer with a vineyard next to a strawberry and vegetable garden, the wine is one of those sleeper wines that needs to open up in the glass, but when it does, watch out. I've had this wine now three times in the past month or so, and each time with wine aficionados and with each bottle, I have been more impressed than the last, providing ample evidence that the wine is a "serious" wine lovers type of wine. Certainly, the initial Cab Franc bell pepper nose is there, and on the palate, but as it opens the flavors of carob, white pepper, strawberry and raspberry. It's already a yummy wine and will easily age five to seven years, maybe more.
1999 Keenan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Another high mountain California red, this time from grapes grown on Spring Mountain. Winemaker Michael Keenan, with some assistance from Nils Venge, has turned out a superb example of Napa Valley Cabernet that is not a wallet buster. Rich and concentrated, ready to drink, but capable of aging 12-15 years or more, the wine is loaded with berry and cherry fruit, very soft, but firm oak and fruit tannin and in perfect balance. This is the kind of wine that goes perfect with a high heat grilled steak at Flemings or even with charred Ahi or Swordfish at Roy's.
2001 Green and Red "Chiles Mill Vineyard" Napa Valley Zinfandel
What I like about Napa Zins, maybe more than their brothers over the hill in Sonoma is the way they mature. When young, you get clearly that in your face, pie filling and jammy fruit. As they mature, they become the more claret like than most Zins. This is no exception, as the big red is already an enjoyable wine, with mouth filling black cherry, raspberry and black currants on the attack, and a warm plum finish at the end. If history is any example of how this wine matures, I've had wines from Green and Red as far back as 1995 with bottle age of I think 1990. This is not a wine to rush, and is one to put in your cellar for drinking down the road, despite being a theme park thrill ride right now.
2000 Frank Family Napa Valley Chardonnay
A $28.00 California Chardonnay that ages is what this wine is. I've had the good fortune to taste the wines of this winery since the 1998 vintage and know how well they taste and age. The 2000 is more French white Burgundy in style than the outstanding 1998 and 1999 release, with high concentrations of minerals, expressive green apple and pear flavors and a delicate, light vanilla touch. Not fat or buttery like some Chardonnays are from Napa, this is a more refined, elegant and food oriented white that can please even the most discerning of guests.
Random Wine Notes...I'd me remiss if I didn't tell you about the 2000 Domain Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir. Always a producer of very good wines, the 2000 is an amazingly lively, rich, terroir driven red that is made totally in a style of the best of Burgundy. Tasted in a flight with the 2001 Joseph Drouhin Burgundies, this wine stood up and was only surpassed by the 200 Gevrey Chambertin, Nuits St. Georges and the always spectacular Clos de Vougeot. At $40 or so retail on the west coast, this is an excellent example of Oregon winemaking and really delivers the goods...The new 2001 Nyers Zinfandel will knock your socks off, which may be why I don't wear any to wine tastings. Amazingly concentrated, rich and fruity, the wine has great character and is going to be the kind of wine better restaurants will want on their list...The 2001 Biale Vineyards "Black Chicken" Zinfandel is a real treat. Made from younger vines, the black fruit , berry and morning toast jam this is almost cult like wine experience for under $40 a bottle.....Hat's off to Eli from Baron's "The Marketplace" and the outstanding job he did to support Children's Hospital last week in Del Mar. I lost count of the number of wineries and distributors but wines from around the world were featured and poured ranging from Ferrari Carano (their new Chardonnay and Reserve Chardonnay are most impressive) to Baja's fine Chateau Camou and Washington's Kiona Vineyard...Wines from NapaNook, Dominus, Ch. Montelana, Keenan--a stunning 1999 Merlot, Rosenblum, Portugal's Duas Quintas, Silver Oak, Veuve Clicquot and a new Santa Barbara killer Syrah from Rock Rabbit (part of the Purple Wine Company project) were standouts....Give credit where credit is due..Carlsbad's Wine Street jumped on Washington State's killer Syrah producer Charlie Smith and his K Vintners wine early on. They just sold out of his Cougar Hills Syrah that is buzzing around the wine underground. Smith is making wines that are just sublime to say the least. With them all gone at Wine Street your only chance to find them may be on Arterra's wine list here in San Diego. If you're out of the area, this is one wine not to pass up on....
Andy Abramson
E-Mail: aabramson@winescene.com
1994 Domaine Trevallon Vin d'Pays Bouches du Rhone Blanc
The blend is Marsanne, Rolle and Chardonnay. Odd grapes to put together. The aroma you get off the start is nutmeg. That's when the fun begins as the viscous, golden colored wine begins to reveal flavors from the unctuous layers of fresh fruit. As rich as some Vendage Tardive wines from Alsace, but like them, as delicate and flavorful as they can be, the wine revealed nuances of flavor and aromatics of ripe honeydew melon, peach, golden apples and peach. Not a jaw dropper of a wine, but darn close this wine has not come close to maxing out its aging apogee, making me wonder what the 1995 and 1993 siblings will be like.
1992 Domaine Trevallon Vin d'Pays Bouches du Rhone Rouge
I have to admit that since my first sip of a Trevallon red in 1988, I've been a convert. That was the famed 1985 which had a flavor that never seemed to end. My appreciation for Trevallon only grew more in 1996 on my first and only visit to the winery, a rustic, non-descript place on the side of the road, where the sign pointing you left is so small you may miss it for that's when the winemaker, the diminutive Elio Durbach replied to my question of how long his wines will age, he just shrugged, and replied, "none has been around long enough to know." But he did tell me that he thought to that point 1992 of the vintages in the 90's to that point was easily the most forward he had made, and the candidate to drink the soonest. So, over the past seven or so years, I have faithfully followed that approach (that and tasting others and only finding he was indeed correct) and enjoyed this wine with only the closest of friends who know and appreciate wine.
The wine begins with a hint of green bell pepper, reminding you of the great Cabernet Francs of the Loire. But that dissipates and turns to more Provencale' aromas like black olives, wild herbs, spice. I think that's the Syrah portion talking for the Cabernet takes on the elegance and flavors of black cherry, tobacco and plum fruit. Just when you think the ride is over, out comes an amazing concentration of blueberry in the finish. The wine is dynamite in the glass, and is world class. How do I know? The chef at the restaurant was still talking about it two nights later as was one of the bartenders.....That was when we tasted and consumed....
1989 Coudelet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhone Rouge
I had intended to grab a 1999 Coudelet that just arrived from Premier Cru, an importer and merchant in Emeryville, CA when I pulled this by mistake. Local wine broker Bill Gillespie and I had just finished an amazing charity tasting that supported Del Mar Schools at a local residents where we both spoke about wines and led the silent auction winners through a series of nine wines. Given it was Saturday night we headed over to Arterra for a fast bite and a chance to try some older reds and a new California red that Bill represents.
The 89 had a low fill, but heck, it's 14 years old and the first ten bottles have never been less than spectacular, so, we gambled rather than return to the cellar and take the intended 1999. That, and the 1990 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape.
The wine rocked. I mean. Rocked. Given all the reports of 1989 Beaucastels having corkage problems out here in California, which I've witnessed with other people's bottles, this wine was a thoroughbred from the very start. That telltale barnyard aroma from the Mourvedre, the soft, almost pinot noir like raspberry aroma from the Grenache and the big, supple heavyweight blueberry flavors from the Syrah were there from the very start. As we drank it, knowing full well, what was up next, we just shook our heads in amazement. This was "Cotes du Rhone" and like always, demonstrating that the so called "second" wine made from grapes just across the road from what is the AOC boundary for Chateauneuf du Pape is a wine that easily rivals and can surpass most of the other better producers first wines in very good years.
The flavors of tar and tobacco were there, as was sweet cherry tobacco flavor, raspberry, strawberry, coffee, blueberry. The wine was amazing and had all the servers and chef Carl Schroeder happy too..
1990 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape
How do you follow up a wine like that. With a better wine. While the 1989 drank better last night, the 1990 was a wine in almost a different class. The Coudelet was a wild stallion, rustic, hedonistic and for thrill seekers. The 1990 CdP was more elegant, refined, yet like the '89 not bridled or holding back anything. It took a little while to open, and I had almost wished I had taken this out of its 55 degree resting place sooner, only so we could have enjoyed it earlier in the evening. But when it opened, and it did, it revealed once again how great this wine will be in say, another four or five years. The wine is as black as Cabernet, likely from the very present, but not overpowering Mourvedre that clearly dominates the wine. The aromas are more along the lines of Provencale and Asian herbs, Oriental tea, spice route peppers (dare I say Peri Peri), and black raspberry. On the mouth the wine is just starting to evolve, good evidence that even at age 13 the future is very bright for this wine, which like the 1988's were, seems to be forward, yet developing, while the 1989's which came out more backwards upon release and still has those delightful earthy aromatics. Not so here, as the very lush, almost velvety red is oozing as it opens with jammy fruit, herbs and spice. Blackberry, blueberry and red plums, make this wine one to hold on to if you have any. If 1989 wasn't as great of a year, it's more than likely that the 1990 would be the one that has collectors whetting their appetites for this wine to come around.
1998 Mas de Bressades Cabernet-Syrah
I'm never quite sure if the wines from Mas de Bressades are designated AOC or VDP wines. But who cares. Here's a $12.99 wine, aged now five, that is made in a throwback style full of all the rustic southern France charms I've grown to love. Consistently an "outperformer" in any reviewers book, having enjoyed wines from this producer for more years than I care to remember, the 98 has developed very nicely into a powerhouse blockbuster of a wine, easily overshadowing some same vintage Cotes du Rhones that I've had of late. Black pepper, roasted herbs, chewy berry fruit, spice and a hint of gravel, great length, but outclassed that night by the Trevallon. Still, as a substitute for Trevallon, while those monsters age, the Bressades is certainly on my list annually as a great QPR buy.
1992 Domaine Tempier "La Cabassaou" Bandol
Sitting in a parcel of land near the famed "La Tourtine" vineyards, the wine is almost 100 percent Mourvedre, as the field blend likely includes a few other varietals. Situated high up on the hillside of Castellet, the vineyard gets the benefits of the Mistral winds and somehow has withstood them for oh so many years. When one defines long term aging wines that are rich, dense and hedonistic, this wine has to come to mind. Now at age 11, the wine is nowhere near its high point in life, still evolving, still developing and still maturing. Flavors of sumatrite, chalk, gravel, of course the always present, but not off putting horse sweat, wild game, earth, mushrooms, cepes, truffles and pine tar, the fruit layers of black raspberry, black plums and ripe cassis are starting to peak through. Give this wine an overnight aeration, in a decanter and the wine will likely be muscular, yet voluptuous.
1998 Domaine Andre Brunel Cotes du Rhone "Cuvee Sommelongue"
One other best value, high achieving Cotes du Rhone Reds in very good years, the 98 is at peak and very enjoyable. Flavors of jammy kirsch, cherry and plums, the wine made by one of Chateauneuf du Pape's better makers (Les Cailloux) is the kind of wine that you drink without thinking, while the bigger Rhones from the more fabled appellations get around to being ready to be enjoyed. Layers of black, bing and red cherry, the wine is no longer candied as it is when young, and instead has become more robust and chewy, as the 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah have melded nicely into a easy to drink, yet full bodied wine that is perfect with just about anything off the grill.
New Wines For The Times
2000 Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
A real treat, and a fine example of high mountain California Cabernet. This new, soon to be released red is a dramatic departure from other Ladera Cabernets, that are more valley based. The wine is already fruit forward, lush and very much developed, evidence that the vintage may be more of an early drinking one compared to 1999 or 1997, yet better in concentration than 1998 was--which in many circles has been declared a great restaurant vintage as the wines are very approachable.
This red is loaded with blueberry pie filling fruit plus sandalwood, coffee, cherry, red plums, violets and a hint of licorice on the palate. The wine is concentrated, has some nice mineral tones and a long, very refined finish.
1999 Frazier Lupine Vineyard Merlot, Oakville
Here's the kind of Merlot your daddy used to drink. Or, anyone who recalls when California Merlot was more than something you found for $12.00 or even $2.00, if you get my implied "Chuckle." Almost Cabernet like, and likely some is found inside, this old school style of Merlot has less than 500 cases produced. Made from estate fruit, the wine is rich, with a chocolate attack and a raspberry, black plum, mint, cedar and cherry finish. Worth seeking out and enjoying with meaty dishes.
1999 Cooper-Garrod Santa Cruz Mountain Cabernet Franc
Another small lot producer with a vineyard next to a strawberry and vegetable garden, the wine is one of those sleeper wines that needs to open up in the glass, but when it does, watch out. I've had this wine now three times in the past month or so, and each time with wine aficionados and with each bottle, I have been more impressed than the last, providing ample evidence that the wine is a "serious" wine lovers type of wine. Certainly, the initial Cab Franc bell pepper nose is there, and on the palate, but as it opens the flavors of carob, white pepper, strawberry and raspberry. It's already a yummy wine and will easily age five to seven years, maybe more.
1999 Keenan Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Another high mountain California red, this time from grapes grown on Spring Mountain. Winemaker Michael Keenan, with some assistance from Nils Venge, has turned out a superb example of Napa Valley Cabernet that is not a wallet buster. Rich and concentrated, ready to drink, but capable of aging 12-15 years or more, the wine is loaded with berry and cherry fruit, very soft, but firm oak and fruit tannin and in perfect balance. This is the kind of wine that goes perfect with a high heat grilled steak at Flemings or even with charred Ahi or Swordfish at Roy's.
2001 Green and Red "Chiles Mill Vineyard" Napa Valley Zinfandel
What I like about Napa Zins, maybe more than their brothers over the hill in Sonoma is the way they mature. When young, you get clearly that in your face, pie filling and jammy fruit. As they mature, they become the more claret like than most Zins. This is no exception, as the big red is already an enjoyable wine, with mouth filling black cherry, raspberry and black currants on the attack, and a warm plum finish at the end. If history is any example of how this wine matures, I've had wines from Green and Red as far back as 1995 with bottle age of I think 1990. This is not a wine to rush, and is one to put in your cellar for drinking down the road, despite being a theme park thrill ride right now.
2000 Frank Family Napa Valley Chardonnay
A $28.00 California Chardonnay that ages is what this wine is. I've had the good fortune to taste the wines of this winery since the 1998 vintage and know how well they taste and age. The 2000 is more French white Burgundy in style than the outstanding 1998 and 1999 release, with high concentrations of minerals, expressive green apple and pear flavors and a delicate, light vanilla touch. Not fat or buttery like some Chardonnays are from Napa, this is a more refined, elegant and food oriented white that can please even the most discerning of guests.
Random Wine Notes...I'd me remiss if I didn't tell you about the 2000 Domain Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir. Always a producer of very good wines, the 2000 is an amazingly lively, rich, terroir driven red that is made totally in a style of the best of Burgundy. Tasted in a flight with the 2001 Joseph Drouhin Burgundies, this wine stood up and was only surpassed by the 200 Gevrey Chambertin, Nuits St. Georges and the always spectacular Clos de Vougeot. At $40 or so retail on the west coast, this is an excellent example of Oregon winemaking and really delivers the goods...The new 2001 Nyers Zinfandel will knock your socks off, which may be why I don't wear any to wine tastings. Amazingly concentrated, rich and fruity, the wine has great character and is going to be the kind of wine better restaurants will want on their list...The 2001 Biale Vineyards "Black Chicken" Zinfandel is a real treat. Made from younger vines, the black fruit , berry and morning toast jam this is almost cult like wine experience for under $40 a bottle.....Hat's off to Eli from Baron's "The Marketplace" and the outstanding job he did to support Children's Hospital last week in Del Mar. I lost count of the number of wineries and distributors but wines from around the world were featured and poured ranging from Ferrari Carano (their new Chardonnay and Reserve Chardonnay are most impressive) to Baja's fine Chateau Camou and Washington's Kiona Vineyard...Wines from NapaNook, Dominus, Ch. Montelana, Keenan--a stunning 1999 Merlot, Rosenblum, Portugal's Duas Quintas, Silver Oak, Veuve Clicquot and a new Santa Barbara killer Syrah from Rock Rabbit (part of the Purple Wine Company project) were standouts....Give credit where credit is due..Carlsbad's Wine Street jumped on Washington State's killer Syrah producer Charlie Smith and his K Vintners wine early on. They just sold out of his Cougar Hills Syrah that is buzzing around the wine underground. Smith is making wines that are just sublime to say the least. With them all gone at Wine Street your only chance to find them may be on Arterra's wine list here in San Diego. If you're out of the area, this is one wine not to pass up on....
Andy Abramson
E-Mail: aabramson@winescene.com
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