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Saturday, August 30, 2003

A Friday night in San Diego means WinePals, but due to the football game, the heat and Labor Day weekend, the group was a tad smaller than usual, but one became three and three became six, and by the time dinner was ready to be served at Arterra the wines and the people were all ready to rock.

2002 Marquis Phillips White Wine

This is a wonderfully refreshing white that is a perfect starter for any occasion. Lightly aromatic with tropical notes, the wine has flavors of green apples, white peaches, kiwi and grapefruit, finishing with just a hint of pineapple. Great by itself, it has the acidity to stand up to Sushi and soy very well.

2002 Mas Cal Demoura Rose, Coteaux du Languedoc

One of the darker Roses from the area near-by Montpeyroux in the heart of the Herault Valley of the Languedoc, comes the "father's wine" from the maker of Mas Julien. Every time I open a bottle of any Mas Cal Demoura wine I know why the son makes such incredible wines--regardless of the color. This Rose, made mostly from Syrah and Grenache, very old vines I might add, is very dark in color, almost as dark as some Pinot Noirs. Served chilled the wine is a perfect summer day accompaniment as the lush strawberry, mulberry, green mint and berries all just engulf the palate.

2000 Domaine La Blaque Côteaux de Pierrevert

This blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault is a stunner. From first whiff from the bottle, to the last drop in the glass, the recently AC status granted region is one to put on the map for future knowledge. Never has a wine so new, from a new region impressed the WinePals jury so quickly, prompting a few to say "Andy, can we get more of this" a quest I'll be up for later in the day. The wine has that earthy, yet sophisticated bouquet which I'm convinced is added by the Cinsault and Mourvedre in the blend, but it's the rich blackberries, blueberries, raspberry, black plums and Provence herbs that makes this wine the crowd pleasing favorite that it is.

1993 Terres Blanche Coteaux d'Aix en Provence

This wine came out of the closet and was hands down the wine of the night in many ways for me, mostly because it shocked me as to how great the wine has become, while it was not the blockbuster that the next wine was, the development in the bottle that was demonstrated started with the ripe berry bouquet and ended with the wine being totally devoid of tannins or harshness. This wine is a classic wine from the region west of Aix near what some call the Valley of Fire just outside of Les Baux. It is the region of Gourgonier, Mas de La Dame, Trevallon and for some weird reason, where Cabernet seems to do so well, despite the day long heat and almost no ocean breezes. The wind there is the Mistral and yet, with that, the blend I suspect is Syrah, Cabernet and Grenache. I'm not sure, but it was just sinsational. Black cherry, tar, plums, blueberries all with a long lingering finish.

1998 Guigal Chateau d' Ampuis Cote Rotie

Black olives. Green olives. Red bell pepper. Stunning. All I can say is stunning. This wine never disappoints me, or anyone, including some of the most informed palates in San Diego who sell and buy wine everyday who were at our table, and a table or two over, plus the GM of the Del Mar Marriott, the new Director of Wine at Arterra or our terrific server, who never fails to keep our dinner running on an even keel, even on the busiest of nights.

To a person, this wine was just the bomb, with the flavors, color and youthfulness that makes you cry that you didn't buy more when the chance was there. It was also the perfect ceremonial wine to toast the arrival of a future Winepal, 21 years hence, Mr. Michael McKewon, the new grandson of Winepals stalwarts, Ray and Kim McKewon, who brought this wine along to toast the arrival of sometimes WinePals Chris and Betsy McKewon first child. It was just as perfect with the succulent Rack of Lamb that Chef Carl Schroeder prepared leaving everyone reaching for the empty decanter wanting more.

1992 Bastide Blanche Bandol

Ah, Bandol. Perhaps no reason is more confusing in the south of France for the wines there are made as if there will always be a tomorrow, in ten years or more. Wines from Bandol when young are the type you need a toothpick for to remove new color from your teeth when you drink them early. They are for the most part, super saturated, Mourvedre based wines that define the expression of "built to last," inky red wines. So, cellaring Bandol is one way to learn how the wines evolve from the sun drenched Mediteranian coast evolve over time. Finding what I think is my last bottle, but one never knows, of this "light weight" Bandol is thus a perfect way to experiment and see what happens. First whiff, telltale band aid nose from the Mourvedre, then all of a sudden black pepper, black raspberry, black berry--oh did I say the color of this wine is almost black--well you get the idea. Notes of coffee, tar, pine needles, along with all the berry fruit and herbs. A very good wine, that has clearly hit its stride.

Cheers,

Andy Abramson


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