Wednesday, November 19, 2003
La Tourelle
43, rue Croix des Petites Champs
Paris 75001
Here in Paris wine bars tend to be smoky, small lively places like Melac, the Clown Bar, Au Bon Crus or La Gavaroche or higher end in style like Willi's Wine Bar or Legrand Filles or even the very extravagant Lavania.
La Tourelle is the best of all that. More of a small bistrot, with a passion for wine, the three level corner establishment, like rivals Juveniles, Melac or Paul Bert owners go to the wine country, seeking out boutique producers who make interesting, off the main track wines to sell both by the glass, bottle or even case to take home. While the outside is rather non-descript, it's inside that the tastefulness of La Tourelle comes alive.
The menu is delightful, with an assortment of regional cooking from all over France. The wines, listed both on the menu and the wall mounted blackboards, are well chosen, showing passion and flair. I started the meal with a Rose. While the weather may be cooling, it's always time for Rose, especially when its one from a producer who is unknown to me. That's the beauty of La Tourelle. The sought out, hand chosen selections come from relatively unknown producers, cooperatives and negociants who are deserving of recognition outside of their home area. The 2002 Domaine Les Foulards Rouges La Soif du Mal Rose made from equal parts Grenache and Syrah was served iced cold. It needed to warm up just a bit, but when it did, it showed that beyond its deep rose' color that there was a pleasurable, easy to drink, non-thinking rose, that was light on the palate and refreshing, without being to heavy. Paired with an Endive Salad that was covered with Artichoke Hearts and Blue cheese from the Auvergne, it was far more robust with the cheese and artichoke.
Main course, and I skipped dessert, was Alsatian Choucroute, made in a more modern style. While there wasn't an Alsatian Pinot Noir on the list, there was a very interesting wine from Brittany, out from near where Muscadet hails from, along the far western banks of the Loire River. The 2002 Domaine de LaSenechaliere Vin de Pays des Marches De Bretagne was about as interesting of a wine as it was refreshing. At lunch, when you don't want a wine that is too, too hearty, and with Choucroute, when you want a wine that washes down the food, you think Beaujolais, or lighter Burgundy, and even Alsatian Pinot Noir. This wine was all that and more. A blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, the wine is tank fermented and bottled straight away, leaving freshness in the wine. Called Abouriou, there are wines made in Burgundy like this, but those see oak, which this never touched. Flavors of raspberry and fresh strawberry, like you put on pancakes were the leading flavors, with a nice lingering finish of black cherries. If you like light Loire reds from Sancerre, Chinon and the rest, or have a penchant for Beaujolais, then this is a wine for you.
Only open since August, La Tourelle joins my short list of wine bars in Paris where the food and the wine are in perfect harmony.
Cheers,
Andy Abramson
43, rue Croix des Petites Champs
Paris 75001
Here in Paris wine bars tend to be smoky, small lively places like Melac, the Clown Bar, Au Bon Crus or La Gavaroche or higher end in style like Willi's Wine Bar or Legrand Filles or even the very extravagant Lavania.
La Tourelle is the best of all that. More of a small bistrot, with a passion for wine, the three level corner establishment, like rivals Juveniles, Melac or Paul Bert owners go to the wine country, seeking out boutique producers who make interesting, off the main track wines to sell both by the glass, bottle or even case to take home. While the outside is rather non-descript, it's inside that the tastefulness of La Tourelle comes alive.
The menu is delightful, with an assortment of regional cooking from all over France. The wines, listed both on the menu and the wall mounted blackboards, are well chosen, showing passion and flair. I started the meal with a Rose. While the weather may be cooling, it's always time for Rose, especially when its one from a producer who is unknown to me. That's the beauty of La Tourelle. The sought out, hand chosen selections come from relatively unknown producers, cooperatives and negociants who are deserving of recognition outside of their home area. The 2002 Domaine Les Foulards Rouges La Soif du Mal Rose made from equal parts Grenache and Syrah was served iced cold. It needed to warm up just a bit, but when it did, it showed that beyond its deep rose' color that there was a pleasurable, easy to drink, non-thinking rose, that was light on the palate and refreshing, without being to heavy. Paired with an Endive Salad that was covered with Artichoke Hearts and Blue cheese from the Auvergne, it was far more robust with the cheese and artichoke.
Main course, and I skipped dessert, was Alsatian Choucroute, made in a more modern style. While there wasn't an Alsatian Pinot Noir on the list, there was a very interesting wine from Brittany, out from near where Muscadet hails from, along the far western banks of the Loire River. The 2002 Domaine de LaSenechaliere Vin de Pays des Marches De Bretagne was about as interesting of a wine as it was refreshing. At lunch, when you don't want a wine that is too, too hearty, and with Choucroute, when you want a wine that washes down the food, you think Beaujolais, or lighter Burgundy, and even Alsatian Pinot Noir. This wine was all that and more. A blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, the wine is tank fermented and bottled straight away, leaving freshness in the wine. Called Abouriou, there are wines made in Burgundy like this, but those see oak, which this never touched. Flavors of raspberry and fresh strawberry, like you put on pancakes were the leading flavors, with a nice lingering finish of black cherries. If you like light Loire reds from Sancerre, Chinon and the rest, or have a penchant for Beaujolais, then this is a wine for you.
Only open since August, La Tourelle joins my short list of wine bars in Paris where the food and the wine are in perfect harmony.
Cheers,
Andy Abramson
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