Sunday, February 08, 2004
Everyone knows I like Castle Rock, Grove Street and Napa Cellars, three producers which are represented by my good friend Bill Gillespie of Torrey Wines here in San Diego that I first reported on before the rest of the world caught on. You also know that I tipped you off to a one producer named David Corey of Core Wine in Santa Maria whose Bandol inspired wines keep getting attention at better wine shops and restaurants throughout the west. Last year in a note I mentioned a new Oregon Pinot producer which had caught my attention. David Hill Winery, from Oregon's Willamette Valley. When their box of wines first arrived last year, totally unexpected, I was amazed at how a new winery could make such good wine, from a region which already had so many great producers sourcing what everyone thought were the best grapes. There only problem seems to be they don't have any real distribution, meaning your best bet for finding their wines is to go direct. Something I never have a problem doing.
So neither you, nor I should be surprised that the 2001 David Hill Estate Pinot Noir would be one of the best I've found in a long while. First off, if you like delicate Pinot Noir, go elsewhere. But if you want a Pinot with body, structure, depth, character, earthy, ripe, glass-bursting flavor, look no further. Chock full of an amazing level of bright, forward fruit, laddened with bright cherry and raspberry flavor, this wine is one to really savor. Last night at 808 Jean Marie Josselin, now nominated seven times to the James Beard Society, whipped up a perfect dish to go with it. Black squid ink pasta, fresh porcini mushrooms, a hint of butter, white truffle oil and garlic, sprinkled with fresh parsley. The combination was ethereal, with the earthiness of the dish, being balanced perfectly with the deep fruit and earthy flavors of the wine.
The 2002 David Hill Pinot Gris isn't too shabby either. Rich, deep with a black licorice and honey nose, the wine is unctuous with some really amazing flavors of honeydew melon, orange peel, lime and cantaloupe. Full bodied, this wine while not as smoky as some Alsatian Pinot Gris, like those form Deiss or Cave de Turckheim, has a nice quality that seems to endure racier foods like those of Roy's or 808.
So neither you, nor I should be surprised that the 2001 David Hill Estate Pinot Noir would be one of the best I've found in a long while. First off, if you like delicate Pinot Noir, go elsewhere. But if you want a Pinot with body, structure, depth, character, earthy, ripe, glass-bursting flavor, look no further. Chock full of an amazing level of bright, forward fruit, laddened with bright cherry and raspberry flavor, this wine is one to really savor. Last night at 808 Jean Marie Josselin, now nominated seven times to the James Beard Society, whipped up a perfect dish to go with it. Black squid ink pasta, fresh porcini mushrooms, a hint of butter, white truffle oil and garlic, sprinkled with fresh parsley. The combination was ethereal, with the earthiness of the dish, being balanced perfectly with the deep fruit and earthy flavors of the wine.
The 2002 David Hill Pinot Gris isn't too shabby either. Rich, deep with a black licorice and honey nose, the wine is unctuous with some really amazing flavors of honeydew melon, orange peel, lime and cantaloupe. Full bodied, this wine while not as smoky as some Alsatian Pinot Gris, like those form Deiss or Cave de Turckheim, has a nice quality that seems to endure racier foods like those of Roy's or 808.
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