Saturday, May 08, 2004
Over the past week with friends I've opened a few of the 1998 Languedocs that are in the cellar, more to see how they are aging and what the profile of the wine are like.
Those who have been into Languedoc wines as long as I have (my first was a 1984 Mas Damas de Gassac) will understand when I say the 98 vintage is more like 1994 than 1993. That means you will want to drink them from about age 7 or 8 before you drink older wines from say, 1995. The wines I opened from five different producers all have a high degree of concentration, terroir and flavor. All can be drunk now, but none have reached peak. Additionally, there is no rush with the 1999 Domaine d'Aupilhac Vin D'Pays Blanc . The white wine from Sylvan Fadat has not hit the seven year mark but the Rolle, Roussanne and Marsanne are all evolving nicely in the bottle, with a fresh and lively flavor profile of apricots, peaches and pears.
1998 Domain D'Auplihac Vin D'Pays du Mont Badile Carignan
From some of the highest and oldest Carignan vines just outside the AOC Montpeyroux, Fadat makes what has to be his finest wine. If Sylvan was only allowed one wine, this would be the wine he makes. Reminiscent of an old school California Zinfandel, the wine has loads of raspberry, black plums, cranberry, cherry and menthol flavor.
1998 Domain d'Auplilhac Coteaux Du Languedoc Montpeyroux
If a wine from the Languedoc was going to emulate one region in the Rhone, this wine would be the Gigondas clone. The blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, with some Carignan, has a chalk and stone base, but gorgeous layers of copious fruit. Black plums, blackberries, wild herbs and lots of black cherry, the wine is nowhere near peak, but super to drink now.
1998 Chateau La Roque Pic St. Loup Coteaux Du Languedoc
The wine was initially closed, but once open, it was so much like a young Bandol. The blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre was big and chunky, with deep black fruit flavors.
1998 Chateau du Cazeneuve Pic St. Loup Coteaux Du Languedoc
Drunk side by side with the La Roque, the wine was very chalky, with a deep purple color and striking with sensational aromatics of black raspberry, blueberry and bing cherry. More complex than the La Roque, the wine needs another two years to really hit stride, as the mostly Syrah based wine is massive and concentrated. On the palate the wine drinks like a fine Hermitage in need of time.
1998 Bergerie de L'Hortus Pic St. Loup Coteaux Du Languedoc
Smooth, silky, with loads of cherries and plums, the wine is of the four Pic St. Loup's tried the most open and best for near term drinking, but still has the soft tannins to age another five to six years. It's smoothness and roundness make it very enjoyable. The tar and black cherries are as evident now as they were when I first tasted this wine some time back at the winery. It's youthfulness is still there, making this a wine to age.
1998 Mas Brugiere Les Grenadiere Fut du Chene Pic St. Loup Coteaux Du Languedoc
Best wine of the four, and like the favorite for me. The wine is loaded with coffee, black tar, blueberry, black raspberry, Garrigue herbs, cherry and plums. The silky palate weight and the soft tannins make this wine an exceptionally food friendly wine, especially with mushrooms and truffles.
The bottom line here is that all the 98's are clearly aging nicely, but there is no rush.
Cheers,
Andy
Those who have been into Languedoc wines as long as I have (my first was a 1984 Mas Damas de Gassac) will understand when I say the 98 vintage is more like 1994 than 1993. That means you will want to drink them from about age 7 or 8 before you drink older wines from say, 1995. The wines I opened from five different producers all have a high degree of concentration, terroir and flavor. All can be drunk now, but none have reached peak. Additionally, there is no rush with the 1999 Domaine d'Aupilhac Vin D'Pays Blanc . The white wine from Sylvan Fadat has not hit the seven year mark but the Rolle, Roussanne and Marsanne are all evolving nicely in the bottle, with a fresh and lively flavor profile of apricots, peaches and pears.
1998 Domain D'Auplihac Vin D'Pays du Mont Badile Carignan
From some of the highest and oldest Carignan vines just outside the AOC Montpeyroux, Fadat makes what has to be his finest wine. If Sylvan was only allowed one wine, this would be the wine he makes. Reminiscent of an old school California Zinfandel, the wine has loads of raspberry, black plums, cranberry, cherry and menthol flavor.
1998 Domain d'Auplilhac Coteaux Du Languedoc Montpeyroux
If a wine from the Languedoc was going to emulate one region in the Rhone, this wine would be the Gigondas clone. The blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre, with some Carignan, has a chalk and stone base, but gorgeous layers of copious fruit. Black plums, blackberries, wild herbs and lots of black cherry, the wine is nowhere near peak, but super to drink now.
1998 Chateau La Roque Pic St. Loup Coteaux Du Languedoc
The wine was initially closed, but once open, it was so much like a young Bandol. The blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre was big and chunky, with deep black fruit flavors.
1998 Chateau du Cazeneuve Pic St. Loup Coteaux Du Languedoc
Drunk side by side with the La Roque, the wine was very chalky, with a deep purple color and striking with sensational aromatics of black raspberry, blueberry and bing cherry. More complex than the La Roque, the wine needs another two years to really hit stride, as the mostly Syrah based wine is massive and concentrated. On the palate the wine drinks like a fine Hermitage in need of time.
1998 Bergerie de L'Hortus Pic St. Loup Coteaux Du Languedoc
Smooth, silky, with loads of cherries and plums, the wine is of the four Pic St. Loup's tried the most open and best for near term drinking, but still has the soft tannins to age another five to six years. It's smoothness and roundness make it very enjoyable. The tar and black cherries are as evident now as they were when I first tasted this wine some time back at the winery. It's youthfulness is still there, making this a wine to age.
1998 Mas Brugiere Les Grenadiere Fut du Chene Pic St. Loup Coteaux Du Languedoc
Best wine of the four, and like the favorite for me. The wine is loaded with coffee, black tar, blueberry, black raspberry, Garrigue herbs, cherry and plums. The silky palate weight and the soft tannins make this wine an exceptionally food friendly wine, especially with mushrooms and truffles.
The bottom line here is that all the 98's are clearly aging nicely, but there is no rush.
Cheers,
Andy
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