Monday, July 05, 2004
At the annual July 4th celebration here at the house we went lower in number of different wines, and more of the "same" wines.
We began with a very detailed and introspective dissection of Rose, three of which were from Tavel, and one from the Costiries de Nimes.
2003 Mas Neuf Costeries de Nimes
This is likely the driest and most austere of the four. Offering up a very light orange/rose colored robe, the wine is fresh, easy to drink and should be consumed over the next 12-18 months.
2003 Lafond Roc Epine Tavel
Perhaps the most fruit forward of the three, those who enjoy more framboise and raspberry will like this fuller bodied, off dry Rose over the next 12-24 months.
2003 Chateau de Tronquedeville Tavel
Of the three from Tavel, this is the most dry, but also has the crisp acidity to go a long way. Possessing a lingering finish, the Kermit Lynch import is loaded with strawberry and light spring raspberry, the wine is a perfect summer sipper or compliment to olives and salads. If one has to choose a Tavel that is true to its roots, this of the three would be it.
2003 Domaine La Mordoree Tavel
By far the most complete and complex wine of the three, the Mordoree has the dryness of the Tronquedeville, while offering up the richness of the Lafond. This is also the Rose most likely to appeal to the widest array of palates and last the longest, perhaps 24-36 months.
2002 Vacheron Sancerre
If it was only a month with the letter R in it, this is the quintessential oyster wine. More so, almost Chablis like in nature, the wine is loaded with minerals and perfectly ripe grapefruit, lemon and limestone flavors. Offering a hint of flintiness, the wine is so refreshing as a summer white, that Chardonnay wasn't even asked for by anyone.
2002 Laurel Glen Terrarosa
I said it last week, and I'll say it again, this is hands down the best Cabernet bargain around. Loaded, jammy, with forward cherry, plum, star anise, currants and licorice, the very smooth yet weighty wine is a pure charm. Buy this wine without hesitation.
2002 Castle Rock Columbia Valley Cabernet
While a nice wine, this doesn't measure up to the releases the folks at Castle Rock make from Napa Valley. Nice, easy to drink, this is a worthy contender as a fighting varietal, but opt for the Terrarosa for a few bucks more.
1998 Guigal Cotes du Rhone Rouge
Year in and year out for the past two decades, I have always seemed to guess right on the Guigal Cotes du Rhones from better than average vintages. The 1998 is no exception, as it has once again hit stride at about age five or so. Blessed with a sensational harvest, the folks at Guigal have once again blended a delicious, age worthy red, made from Grenache and Syrah that for the price ($8.99) seems to be a wine worth twice the price. Rich and unctuous, with an almost Chateauneuf meets Gigondas style, the wine, which will remind some of lighter waeight wines from both of those areas is a delight right now, and will age well for another five or so years. Fans who have had older Guigal Cotes du Rhones will know this wine well, as it is similar in style to the 1983, 1985 and 1989 releases and is clearly the best Cotes du Rhone they made in the 90s.
1999 Domaine d'Aupilhac Lou Masset Vin d'Pays
Sylvain Fadat and I have a running argument about three of his wines. The Rose, the white and the Lou Masset. One of the Languedoc's true Syrah masters, his "bistro" wine, named after his grand father who deeded over the Mont Baudile Carignan vineyards to the youthful winemaker in the the late 80's, seems to think some of his wines won't age as well as the top Coteaux du Languedoc or his 100 percent Old Vines Carignan. Wrong. The 1999, which initially was grape forward, and simple has emerged as a killer and complex red wine that has to be a challenge to all Southern French Vin D'Pay blends under the $15.00 price point. Silky rich, juicy and complete now, the wine will age another three to four years, if you can keep your hands off of them. This is one of Sylvan's best efforts to date and clearly shows the turning point of when he matured as a winemaker. The rich black currants, blackberry, mocha, plum and cherry fruit, backed by lingering raspberry flavors gave this wine a great finish.
NV Vaquer Post Scriptum Rivesaltes
For most, a great dessert wine is either a later harvest Alsatian, a Sauterne, Port or a German Auslese or higher. But the southern end of the Roussillion, almost to the Spanish border is also a hotbed for those wines too. Sadly, not enough find the public markets in the USA, save for some wines from Banyuls or Maury, and the occasional importation of something from the Rivesaltes region near Perpignan. This producer, whose USA rights last fell to Dan Kravitz has a tremendous portfolio of wines that need aging, especially their reds and whites. But if I had to choose what Vaquer wines I would keep for long term cellaring, the P.S. would be the wine. Full of kir royal, kirsch, framboise, cherry and black-raspberry fruit, this dessert wine is easily on a par with the best Banyuls or Maury wines from neighboring appellations.
Cheers
We began with a very detailed and introspective dissection of Rose, three of which were from Tavel, and one from the Costiries de Nimes.
2003 Mas Neuf Costeries de Nimes
This is likely the driest and most austere of the four. Offering up a very light orange/rose colored robe, the wine is fresh, easy to drink and should be consumed over the next 12-18 months.
2003 Lafond Roc Epine Tavel
Perhaps the most fruit forward of the three, those who enjoy more framboise and raspberry will like this fuller bodied, off dry Rose over the next 12-24 months.
2003 Chateau de Tronquedeville Tavel
Of the three from Tavel, this is the most dry, but also has the crisp acidity to go a long way. Possessing a lingering finish, the Kermit Lynch import is loaded with strawberry and light spring raspberry, the wine is a perfect summer sipper or compliment to olives and salads. If one has to choose a Tavel that is true to its roots, this of the three would be it.
2003 Domaine La Mordoree Tavel
By far the most complete and complex wine of the three, the Mordoree has the dryness of the Tronquedeville, while offering up the richness of the Lafond. This is also the Rose most likely to appeal to the widest array of palates and last the longest, perhaps 24-36 months.
2002 Vacheron Sancerre
If it was only a month with the letter R in it, this is the quintessential oyster wine. More so, almost Chablis like in nature, the wine is loaded with minerals and perfectly ripe grapefruit, lemon and limestone flavors. Offering a hint of flintiness, the wine is so refreshing as a summer white, that Chardonnay wasn't even asked for by anyone.
2002 Laurel Glen Terrarosa
I said it last week, and I'll say it again, this is hands down the best Cabernet bargain around. Loaded, jammy, with forward cherry, plum, star anise, currants and licorice, the very smooth yet weighty wine is a pure charm. Buy this wine without hesitation.
2002 Castle Rock Columbia Valley Cabernet
While a nice wine, this doesn't measure up to the releases the folks at Castle Rock make from Napa Valley. Nice, easy to drink, this is a worthy contender as a fighting varietal, but opt for the Terrarosa for a few bucks more.
1998 Guigal Cotes du Rhone Rouge
Year in and year out for the past two decades, I have always seemed to guess right on the Guigal Cotes du Rhones from better than average vintages. The 1998 is no exception, as it has once again hit stride at about age five or so. Blessed with a sensational harvest, the folks at Guigal have once again blended a delicious, age worthy red, made from Grenache and Syrah that for the price ($8.99) seems to be a wine worth twice the price. Rich and unctuous, with an almost Chateauneuf meets Gigondas style, the wine, which will remind some of lighter waeight wines from both of those areas is a delight right now, and will age well for another five or so years. Fans who have had older Guigal Cotes du Rhones will know this wine well, as it is similar in style to the 1983, 1985 and 1989 releases and is clearly the best Cotes du Rhone they made in the 90s.
1999 Domaine d'Aupilhac Lou Masset Vin d'Pays
Sylvain Fadat and I have a running argument about three of his wines. The Rose, the white and the Lou Masset. One of the Languedoc's true Syrah masters, his "bistro" wine, named after his grand father who deeded over the Mont Baudile Carignan vineyards to the youthful winemaker in the the late 80's, seems to think some of his wines won't age as well as the top Coteaux du Languedoc or his 100 percent Old Vines Carignan. Wrong. The 1999, which initially was grape forward, and simple has emerged as a killer and complex red wine that has to be a challenge to all Southern French Vin D'Pay blends under the $15.00 price point. Silky rich, juicy and complete now, the wine will age another three to four years, if you can keep your hands off of them. This is one of Sylvan's best efforts to date and clearly shows the turning point of when he matured as a winemaker. The rich black currants, blackberry, mocha, plum and cherry fruit, backed by lingering raspberry flavors gave this wine a great finish.
NV Vaquer Post Scriptum Rivesaltes
For most, a great dessert wine is either a later harvest Alsatian, a Sauterne, Port or a German Auslese or higher. But the southern end of the Roussillion, almost to the Spanish border is also a hotbed for those wines too. Sadly, not enough find the public markets in the USA, save for some wines from Banyuls or Maury, and the occasional importation of something from the Rivesaltes region near Perpignan. This producer, whose USA rights last fell to Dan Kravitz has a tremendous portfolio of wines that need aging, especially their reds and whites. But if I had to choose what Vaquer wines I would keep for long term cellaring, the P.S. would be the wine. Full of kir royal, kirsch, framboise, cherry and black-raspberry fruit, this dessert wine is easily on a par with the best Banyuls or Maury wines from neighboring appellations.
Cheers
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