Monday, October 04, 2004
can't call this a discovery because other people I know have already been to Maison Borie, but the six course tasting menu for 78 Euros is not a bad deal, especially when the same quantity and quality will cost twice the price or more in Paris. But what's really funny is a few years back on a trip through the Rhone Valley I actually had lunch with the chef and some folks I know from the eRobertParker.com site who were in Chateauneuf du Pape at a La Mere Germain, when I was enroute to Paris as I am later this morning. I held off asking for the chef but as I was leaving there he was at the door. And guess what. He remembered too and suggested next time, I let him know I'm choosing to have diner at Maison Borie again. And guess what, I sure will. It's that amazing and worth a repeat visit.
First off, Maison Borie is in the southern area of Lyon and has a wine list to die for with an unreal historical selection of Southern French wines that make me want to take up residence. But it doesn't stop there as they have Bordeaux and Burgundies as well that are just mind boggling. The choices are all the kind of wines you could easily say, "now that would be very interesting" especially when you look at the vintages. As for the food, well, that too is sublime. You have a choice of the tasting menu or a smaller, three course one. Given the choices, it was difficult, but I opted for the larger and more involved tasting menu. I also went for a wine I have not had but know of, rather than a Rhone, for once I get to Paris, Rhone's will be all over the place, especially when I start hanging out with Mr. Rhone, Mark Williamson of Willi's Wine Bar later this afternoon.
At 45 euros a bottle of 2000 Domaine Gauby Cotes du Roussillion Villages is a steal on a restaurant list that has many gems but where the prices are a tad high considering I'm dining solo tonight. At age four, the wine is very lush and forward already, but having drank this wine from as far back as 91 I know how well it can age. Showing a dark purple robe with violet highlights, the Gauby is exceptional already as it seems to gain power with each sip. As Cotes du Roussillion Villages wines go, they don't get much better and this wine is singing with ripe black raspberry, smooth black plum and gobs of bing cherry fruit.
Here are the photos which will only improve as I get reaquainted with the Sony camera.
Oh yes, dinner. The amuse was a crème de cocoa and beef cold soup. This is kind of like the cappuccino that Jeffrey Strauss likes to make at Pamplemousse Grill, only with more extracted and meaty flavors.
Scallop in a cream and leek soup base with caviar and nuts. Now this was a combination that would have even David Abella smiling. The salty taste of the black Caviar with the leeks was delightful, but it was the addition of the nuts that made the presentation. The Scallops (Coquilles St. Jacques) were perfectly cooked and likely day boat fresh.
Bar, (a whitefish from the Cod family) over a bed of legumes and baby potatoes What was so tasty about this dish was the simplicity in the presentation. This was reminiscent of a dish one would experience at La Bernadine in New York City where the presentation only tempts you, and the taste wows you.
Duck Foie Gras over Cantaloupe melon with orange marmalade
Wow! What perfect Foie Gras. Both chef friends Roy's Evan Cruz and Arterra's Carl Schroeder would shake there head in how amazing this dish was cooked. The Foie seemed to melt in my mouth and the fruit base was perfect.
Baby Pigeon Over Salmon Cake with Ricotta cheese sliced in a sauce of marrow and herbs with sautéed spinach
Possibly the third best dish of the night, behind the Foie Gras and Scallops, the herbs and cheese made this dish by adding flavor to the bird.
St. Marceline cheese--runny, semi sweet, not dry. Yum
Citron sorbet in a cherry coulis-oh, did this pastry taste great.
A tray of desserts
If you ever get to Lyon, go here. This is the kind of place that will be Michelin starred before they know it. And that will be sad because then they have to work to keep the stars, instead of doing what they do so well.
First off, Maison Borie is in the southern area of Lyon and has a wine list to die for with an unreal historical selection of Southern French wines that make me want to take up residence. But it doesn't stop there as they have Bordeaux and Burgundies as well that are just mind boggling. The choices are all the kind of wines you could easily say, "now that would be very interesting" especially when you look at the vintages. As for the food, well, that too is sublime. You have a choice of the tasting menu or a smaller, three course one. Given the choices, it was difficult, but I opted for the larger and more involved tasting menu. I also went for a wine I have not had but know of, rather than a Rhone, for once I get to Paris, Rhone's will be all over the place, especially when I start hanging out with Mr. Rhone, Mark Williamson of Willi's Wine Bar later this afternoon.
At 45 euros a bottle of 2000 Domaine Gauby Cotes du Roussillion Villages is a steal on a restaurant list that has many gems but where the prices are a tad high considering I'm dining solo tonight. At age four, the wine is very lush and forward already, but having drank this wine from as far back as 91 I know how well it can age. Showing a dark purple robe with violet highlights, the Gauby is exceptional already as it seems to gain power with each sip. As Cotes du Roussillion Villages wines go, they don't get much better and this wine is singing with ripe black raspberry, smooth black plum and gobs of bing cherry fruit.
Here are the photos which will only improve as I get reaquainted with the Sony camera.
Oh yes, dinner. The amuse was a crème de cocoa and beef cold soup. This is kind of like the cappuccino that Jeffrey Strauss likes to make at Pamplemousse Grill, only with more extracted and meaty flavors.
Scallop in a cream and leek soup base with caviar and nuts. Now this was a combination that would have even David Abella smiling. The salty taste of the black Caviar with the leeks was delightful, but it was the addition of the nuts that made the presentation. The Scallops (Coquilles St. Jacques) were perfectly cooked and likely day boat fresh.
Bar, (a whitefish from the Cod family) over a bed of legumes and baby potatoes What was so tasty about this dish was the simplicity in the presentation. This was reminiscent of a dish one would experience at La Bernadine in New York City where the presentation only tempts you, and the taste wows you.
Duck Foie Gras over Cantaloupe melon with orange marmalade
Wow! What perfect Foie Gras. Both chef friends Roy's Evan Cruz and Arterra's Carl Schroeder would shake there head in how amazing this dish was cooked. The Foie seemed to melt in my mouth and the fruit base was perfect.
Baby Pigeon Over Salmon Cake with Ricotta cheese sliced in a sauce of marrow and herbs with sautéed spinach
Possibly the third best dish of the night, behind the Foie Gras and Scallops, the herbs and cheese made this dish by adding flavor to the bird.
St. Marceline cheese--runny, semi sweet, not dry. Yum
Citron sorbet in a cherry coulis-oh, did this pastry taste great.
A tray of desserts
If you ever get to Lyon, go here. This is the kind of place that will be Michelin starred before they know it. And that will be sad because then they have to work to keep the stars, instead of doing what they do so well.
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