Sunday, October 10, 2004
I'm at Fish, on Rue du Seine in the 6th. It's again being directed by Drew Harrier who tried to go international with the Cosi chain only to get done in by the investors about a year or so back, and ex Miami wine maven Juan Sanchez.
Fish is one of my favorite wine bars in Paris. Partly because of Juan and Drew, but also because of its totally laid back atmosphere and sensational 13 wines by the glass are on offer and where the choices always are more than one can enjoy in a sitting. Like Willi's the food is equally impressive and three plates for 21 Euros is a very good deal, especially on Sunday when so many places are closed. That makes Fish an oasis for wine lovers.
2003 Bergerie de L'Hortus Classique Coteaux du Languedoc Blanc
I always love this wine and having been to the winery a few time am always amazed at the concentration of fruit in the wine. Served in tasting glasses the wine is fresh and lively. Tart lime, lemon, orange peel, dried pears and a hint of nectarines are all woven tightly in the wine. Not a hint of high acidity, but the crispness makes the wine a super way to start the afternoon.
Red pepper soup with pesto and a cheese crusted cheese bread.
Very warming and tasty. The soup is flavorful, not so heavy that it fills you to fast, but with the pesto has a nice blending of flavors. The cut of goat cheese also adds a nice touch.
2001 Ferrer Ribiere Cotes du Roussillion
Unlike most of the Rousillions Juan usually picks, this misses the mark. It is thin and watery, and while one can taste the black fruit it is not up to what I normally find at Fish. On the other hand the 2002 Vin des Pays du Cotes de Libron Domaine de Colombette Lledonner Pelut is sensational. Especially with the warmed duck salad over mushrooms. The duck, which was spit roasted is moist and full of flavor. I recall having a glass of this a year ago at Robouchon's L'Atelier. And in a year this wine has really taken on even more grace and finesse. Ripe black cherries are forward dominant, while the mid palate gets a whopping taste of saturated black plums before ripe blueberry finishes off the wine.
Dessert is a lemon and orange tart. Why not. I'm in Paris. It is more like a pie slice that is super appealing and tasty. It is a wonderful tart and everyone should have one now and then don't you think? With the tart I opt for the 2003 Champalou Vouvrey Demi-Sec, a semi sweet white with just enough sweetness to work with the two tropical fruits.The wine is very balanced and even, with Myers lemon, pineapple and apricot fruit flavors.
After a meal like this, it's easy to say "Go Fish" when in Paris.
Fish is one of my favorite wine bars in Paris. Partly because of Juan and Drew, but also because of its totally laid back atmosphere and sensational 13 wines by the glass are on offer and where the choices always are more than one can enjoy in a sitting. Like Willi's the food is equally impressive and three plates for 21 Euros is a very good deal, especially on Sunday when so many places are closed. That makes Fish an oasis for wine lovers.
2003 Bergerie de L'Hortus Classique Coteaux du Languedoc Blanc
I always love this wine and having been to the winery a few time am always amazed at the concentration of fruit in the wine. Served in tasting glasses the wine is fresh and lively. Tart lime, lemon, orange peel, dried pears and a hint of nectarines are all woven tightly in the wine. Not a hint of high acidity, but the crispness makes the wine a super way to start the afternoon.
Red pepper soup with pesto and a cheese crusted cheese bread.
Very warming and tasty. The soup is flavorful, not so heavy that it fills you to fast, but with the pesto has a nice blending of flavors. The cut of goat cheese also adds a nice touch.
2001 Ferrer Ribiere Cotes du Roussillion
Unlike most of the Rousillions Juan usually picks, this misses the mark. It is thin and watery, and while one can taste the black fruit it is not up to what I normally find at Fish. On the other hand the 2002 Vin des Pays du Cotes de Libron Domaine de Colombette Lledonner Pelut is sensational. Especially with the warmed duck salad over mushrooms. The duck, which was spit roasted is moist and full of flavor. I recall having a glass of this a year ago at Robouchon's L'Atelier. And in a year this wine has really taken on even more grace and finesse. Ripe black cherries are forward dominant, while the mid palate gets a whopping taste of saturated black plums before ripe blueberry finishes off the wine.
Dessert is a lemon and orange tart. Why not. I'm in Paris. It is more like a pie slice that is super appealing and tasty. It is a wonderful tart and everyone should have one now and then don't you think? With the tart I opt for the 2003 Champalou Vouvrey Demi-Sec, a semi sweet white with just enough sweetness to work with the two tropical fruits.The wine is very balanced and even, with Myers lemon, pineapple and apricot fruit flavors.
After a meal like this, it's easy to say "Go Fish" when in Paris.
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