Saturday, October 09, 2004
L'Atelier Berger on the Rue Berger is one of these hidden spots you want to keep to yourself, but Chef Jean Christiansen's inventive menu is so good and he is so talented that between Maceo and Berger you could not find two better spots to dine on back to back evenings. That and the price, dinner with two bottomless glasses of wine, $49 Euros, while Maceo was $42 Euros with one and coffee.
Christiansen has, like Mark Williamson, also become a friend. When friends of mine need a table in Paris he always finds aa way to accommodate them, then sees to their hospitality personally. His amazing skills in the kitchen make him part David Abella, yet he works the floor so well, that he's also part Nick Burns. The bottom line is if you like Arterra you will love L'Atelier Berger on your next Paris trip.
The meal begins with an amuse, a light black and green olive tapenade that is so smooth, served on toast with a pesto sauce.
My first wine is 2001 Clos Milan Coteaux d' Aix en Provence, a wine that meats with Jean's approval as he decides what dish to pair with the wines I want to drink. The first course, a Cauliflower cream soup is full flavored, with a medley of mushrooms. Like velvet, it is so smooth. The forest floor flavor comes through bringing earth and savory flavor.
2003 Domaine de La Marfee Vin d'Pays l'Herault Les Gamines
This wine is from the former manager of Granges des Pere. This 100 percent Carignan was made with an assist to Laurant of Grange des Pere, the top producer in all of the Languedoc. It is one of smoothest young Carignan's I have tasted, and this is easily on par with Domaine d'Aupilhac. It has a long tart black raspberry middle with loads of blackberry and garrigue spice rounds out this Vin D Pays from the L'Herault Valley, not to far from Gassac's famed vineyards.
The salt Hake, a cod like white fish in a confit of rustic vegetables starts with a base of caramel and lemon juice. As that breaks down the peppers, leeks, onions and tomatoes are then roasted as the juice simmers away. Eventually only the natural juice from the vegetables remains along with the confit of vegetables. The flavor is impressive to say the least. It is downright amazing.
Dessert is a roasted honey glazed pear in a tea based sauce with a side dish of pear ice cream. Wow.
L'Atelier Berger is one of those secrets that can't stay that way for too long.
Christiansen has, like Mark Williamson, also become a friend. When friends of mine need a table in Paris he always finds aa way to accommodate them, then sees to their hospitality personally. His amazing skills in the kitchen make him part David Abella, yet he works the floor so well, that he's also part Nick Burns. The bottom line is if you like Arterra you will love L'Atelier Berger on your next Paris trip.
The meal begins with an amuse, a light black and green olive tapenade that is so smooth, served on toast with a pesto sauce.
My first wine is 2001 Clos Milan Coteaux d' Aix en Provence, a wine that meats with Jean's approval as he decides what dish to pair with the wines I want to drink. The first course, a Cauliflower cream soup is full flavored, with a medley of mushrooms. Like velvet, it is so smooth. The forest floor flavor comes through bringing earth and savory flavor.
2003 Domaine de La Marfee Vin d'Pays l'Herault Les Gamines
This wine is from the former manager of Granges des Pere. This 100 percent Carignan was made with an assist to Laurant of Grange des Pere, the top producer in all of the Languedoc. It is one of smoothest young Carignan's I have tasted, and this is easily on par with Domaine d'Aupilhac. It has a long tart black raspberry middle with loads of blackberry and garrigue spice rounds out this Vin D Pays from the L'Herault Valley, not to far from Gassac's famed vineyards.
The salt Hake, a cod like white fish in a confit of rustic vegetables starts with a base of caramel and lemon juice. As that breaks down the peppers, leeks, onions and tomatoes are then roasted as the juice simmers away. Eventually only the natural juice from the vegetables remains along with the confit of vegetables. The flavor is impressive to say the least. It is downright amazing.
Dessert is a roasted honey glazed pear in a tea based sauce with a side dish of pear ice cream. Wow.
L'Atelier Berger is one of those secrets that can't stay that way for too long.
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