Tuesday, March 22, 2005
Today we went to the tasting of Lirac and Tavel, two neighboring regions in the Southern end of the Rhone, on the west side of the river.
While Tavel was almost all Rose, I have to admit I never saw so many Rose wines in one place. While I tasted the personal favorites, and all the 2004 wines were correct, given that they were all just put in bottle the last two weeks or so, it means they are exceedingly young and in some cases fizzy. That said Domaine de la Moderee, Chateau de Sigries, Chateau Tronquevedel, Domaine Lafond-Roc Epine were all right where I expected them to be. Of the four la Moderee seemed to be the best, but none of them were in my estimation as strong of a wine as the 2003s were.
Over in Lirac I tasted through a few producers gaining a better sense for the somewhat maligned region. Sort of a stepchild due to it's West of the Rhone in the southern end, wines from Lirac, both red and white have a great deal of kinship with Chateauneuf du Pape. And while the vineyards and Domains may not be as well known, given the prices of Lirac wines that are on par with Cotes du Rhone Villages, some should be considered in the same breath as widely respected wines from Gigondas and Vacqueyras. Sadly, for many, they don't get the respect they should.
Chateau Mont Redon
The 2004 Lirac Rose was good and fruit forward. Honestly, this was more developed than the more highly regarded Tavel Rose wines. The 2003 Lirac Blanc was unfortunately just a simple, one dimensional wine. While nothing was flawed with the wine, it just didn't have any special quality to it.
Domaine de la Moderee
I tasted wines at both Tavel and Lirac, as well as a visit to the very well run winery just outside of Tavel. I have to say that of producers in the region Moderee remains at the very top. Christophe Delorme is a classy, forward thinking winemaker. With parcels of vineyard land in Lirac, Tavel, Chateauneuf du Pape and in the Cotes du Rhone, Delorme has assembled a stellar line-up of wines that are clearly worthy of seeking out. The 2004 Lirac Blanc, a blend of Viognier, Marsannne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Clairette was very, very good as it showed a great deal of finesse. From the first whiff of this lemon scented wine all the way through the lovely pear and pear center, the wine was a non-stop joy to have in the mouth. The same can be said about the 2003 La Dame Rousse, a very nicely made red that is equal parts Syrah and Grenache. Packed with plums and black raspberry, the jammy red wine has a tart grape jelly flavor in the finish along with all kinds of ripe blueberry overtones. This is a serious wine, and not for the lovers of insipid, wimpy and otherwise uninspiring Cotes du Rhones, of which there are many. Even bigger and better, and already drinking like a baby Chateauneuf du Pape is the 2003 La Reine des Bois. Made from equal parts of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, this jammy, smoky, plum, cassis and blueberry tasting red is one to behold and may only be seconded by the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape. Already drinking like the superstar it is, the red wine is a knockout, with all the right CdP components perfectly integrated in harmony.
Domaine Grand Veneur
I continue to be impressed with this producer and believe this is a property that has made incredible strides in a short time. The 2004 Clos Sixte Rose, made from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre is very clean, with crispness and a bright flavor of raspberry, blueberry and tarry blackberry. The 2003 Lirac Clos Sixte is a showstopper and perhaps one of the best wines I've tasted all week. This is a stunning wine with great intensity with a teeth staining purple color. Loads and loads of black plums, cherry, blueberry, black cherry. This is a super wine and worth seeking out.
Chateau Saint Roch
The 2004 Lirac Blanc is an enjoyable and pleasing lemon, lime, pear peach and cantaloupe wine that has Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette and Viognier in the blend. After tasting this and other 2004 whites I am convinced that they, and the Rose wines indicate that they will be the better wines versus the 2004 Reds from the southern Rhone overall. The 2003 Lirac Blanc was similar in style to the '04, but with more roundness and greater degrees of lushness. The 2003 Cuvee Confifentialle is made from 100 percent Clairette and is bone dry and crisp. This is an ideal wine to accompany sushi. The 2004 Rose from Saint Roch is made from Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. It is bone dry, with a long and lingering 15 second or more strawberry finish. Once again the non Tavel Rose wines are showing better earlier. Saint Roch's 2003 Lirac Rouge is made from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre is a plummy wine that is full of fruit, only marred by a slightly hot finish. The 2003 Cuvee Confidential Rouge is a much higher quality red. Lots of good bright and deep fruit are found in this wine as the flavors of cherries, plums, blue and blackberries and cassis are all mouth filling.
Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine
While I liked their Rose, I was somewhat disappointed in their red wine from the Lirac region. That said, the 04 Blanc was refined, with plenty of apricot and peach flavors and would be worth checking out again in four or five months as the wine is still very youthful. The 03 Rouge was much less intense, delivering a simple wine that will sell well in grocery stores here in France but is not in the league of other Reds from Lirac.
Domaine du Joncier
One of the wines in the portfolio of Kermit Lynch that always has people asking me, "what's that" is the stunningly good Joncier Lirac. Sadly we only see the red in the USA for the rest of the wines are incredible. Take for example the Vin d'Pays white. The 2004 VDP Blanc is vinfied in barrels that used to make Chateau D'Yquem. Made from over-ripened Marsanne and Bourbourblanc this lovely aperitif style white offers an appealing golden yellow color with a cool center of honeydew and peach flavors. This is a gem in every sense of the word. The 2004 Lirac Rose just ten days in bottle is equally impressive. With a wonderfully perfume nose of rose petals and lily scents the Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault wine is sure to turn some heads. But the best wines from Joncier are the reds. Both 2003 Lirac Rouge wines are stars, with the nudge going to the new Les Muses. This blend of Mourvedre (45%), Grenache (30%), Cinsault (10%) and Syrah (5%) is a very classy wine. It throws off lots of black plums, white pepper, stony plums, cassis, strawberry and blueberry flavors. If put into a blind tasting some would think this was a Chateauneuf du Pape.
While Tavel was almost all Rose, I have to admit I never saw so many Rose wines in one place. While I tasted the personal favorites, and all the 2004 wines were correct, given that they were all just put in bottle the last two weeks or so, it means they are exceedingly young and in some cases fizzy. That said Domaine de la Moderee, Chateau de Sigries, Chateau Tronquevedel, Domaine Lafond-Roc Epine were all right where I expected them to be. Of the four la Moderee seemed to be the best, but none of them were in my estimation as strong of a wine as the 2003s were.
Over in Lirac I tasted through a few producers gaining a better sense for the somewhat maligned region. Sort of a stepchild due to it's West of the Rhone in the southern end, wines from Lirac, both red and white have a great deal of kinship with Chateauneuf du Pape. And while the vineyards and Domains may not be as well known, given the prices of Lirac wines that are on par with Cotes du Rhone Villages, some should be considered in the same breath as widely respected wines from Gigondas and Vacqueyras. Sadly, for many, they don't get the respect they should.
Chateau Mont Redon
The 2004 Lirac Rose was good and fruit forward. Honestly, this was more developed than the more highly regarded Tavel Rose wines. The 2003 Lirac Blanc was unfortunately just a simple, one dimensional wine. While nothing was flawed with the wine, it just didn't have any special quality to it.
Domaine de la Moderee
I tasted wines at both Tavel and Lirac, as well as a visit to the very well run winery just outside of Tavel. I have to say that of producers in the region Moderee remains at the very top. Christophe Delorme is a classy, forward thinking winemaker. With parcels of vineyard land in Lirac, Tavel, Chateauneuf du Pape and in the Cotes du Rhone, Delorme has assembled a stellar line-up of wines that are clearly worthy of seeking out. The 2004 Lirac Blanc, a blend of Viognier, Marsannne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Clairette was very, very good as it showed a great deal of finesse. From the first whiff of this lemon scented wine all the way through the lovely pear and pear center, the wine was a non-stop joy to have in the mouth. The same can be said about the 2003 La Dame Rousse, a very nicely made red that is equal parts Syrah and Grenache. Packed with plums and black raspberry, the jammy red wine has a tart grape jelly flavor in the finish along with all kinds of ripe blueberry overtones. This is a serious wine, and not for the lovers of insipid, wimpy and otherwise uninspiring Cotes du Rhones, of which there are many. Even bigger and better, and already drinking like a baby Chateauneuf du Pape is the 2003 La Reine des Bois. Made from equal parts of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, this jammy, smoky, plum, cassis and blueberry tasting red is one to behold and may only be seconded by the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape. Already drinking like the superstar it is, the red wine is a knockout, with all the right CdP components perfectly integrated in harmony.
Domaine Grand Veneur
I continue to be impressed with this producer and believe this is a property that has made incredible strides in a short time. The 2004 Clos Sixte Rose, made from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre is very clean, with crispness and a bright flavor of raspberry, blueberry and tarry blackberry. The 2003 Lirac Clos Sixte is a showstopper and perhaps one of the best wines I've tasted all week. This is a stunning wine with great intensity with a teeth staining purple color. Loads and loads of black plums, cherry, blueberry, black cherry. This is a super wine and worth seeking out.
Chateau Saint Roch
The 2004 Lirac Blanc is an enjoyable and pleasing lemon, lime, pear peach and cantaloupe wine that has Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette and Viognier in the blend. After tasting this and other 2004 whites I am convinced that they, and the Rose wines indicate that they will be the better wines versus the 2004 Reds from the southern Rhone overall. The 2003 Lirac Blanc was similar in style to the '04, but with more roundness and greater degrees of lushness. The 2003 Cuvee Confifentialle is made from 100 percent Clairette and is bone dry and crisp. This is an ideal wine to accompany sushi. The 2004 Rose from Saint Roch is made from Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah. It is bone dry, with a long and lingering 15 second or more strawberry finish. Once again the non Tavel Rose wines are showing better earlier. Saint Roch's 2003 Lirac Rouge is made from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre is a plummy wine that is full of fruit, only marred by a slightly hot finish. The 2003 Cuvee Confidential Rouge is a much higher quality red. Lots of good bright and deep fruit are found in this wine as the flavors of cherries, plums, blue and blackberries and cassis are all mouth filling.
Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine
While I liked their Rose, I was somewhat disappointed in their red wine from the Lirac region. That said, the 04 Blanc was refined, with plenty of apricot and peach flavors and would be worth checking out again in four or five months as the wine is still very youthful. The 03 Rouge was much less intense, delivering a simple wine that will sell well in grocery stores here in France but is not in the league of other Reds from Lirac.
Domaine du Joncier
One of the wines in the portfolio of Kermit Lynch that always has people asking me, "what's that" is the stunningly good Joncier Lirac. Sadly we only see the red in the USA for the rest of the wines are incredible. Take for example the Vin d'Pays white. The 2004 VDP Blanc is vinfied in barrels that used to make Chateau D'Yquem. Made from over-ripened Marsanne and Bourbourblanc this lovely aperitif style white offers an appealing golden yellow color with a cool center of honeydew and peach flavors. This is a gem in every sense of the word. The 2004 Lirac Rose just ten days in bottle is equally impressive. With a wonderfully perfume nose of rose petals and lily scents the Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault wine is sure to turn some heads. But the best wines from Joncier are the reds. Both 2003 Lirac Rouge wines are stars, with the nudge going to the new Les Muses. This blend of Mourvedre (45%), Grenache (30%), Cinsault (10%) and Syrah (5%) is a very classy wine. It throws off lots of black plums, white pepper, stony plums, cassis, strawberry and blueberry flavors. If put into a blind tasting some would think this was a Chateauneuf du Pape.
Comments:
Post a Comment
